Sleepless in Sodere

The temperature rose steadily as the bus slipped forward. Like a frog sitting in slowly fired water, I was too dumb to get out and go back to cooler haunts. So the plague of frogs descended on Sodere, our destination for in-service training. The stark contrasts of Ethiopia show through at the flip of a coin. My view of Africa to this point hasn't felt similar to the Africa of lore and pen. The highlands that I live in aren't the prototypical African setting. Now in Sodere the heat has dried the ink that I would think typical. The showers here seer the skin from their heat. The toilet seats bring back fond memories of electrically heated toilet seats in Japan, with the same moment of questioning the recency of use. However, in the case of the toilet seats here, they are warmed from the water in the toilet bowl. The heat in the evenings stacks itself like thick layers of bolognese lasagna. At night I lie cocooned inside this lasagna. I am the uncomfortable airplane legs. I am the agitated driver in traffic. I couldn't sleep.

The week started out with permaculture training (permanent agriculture). Even though I was on the right track with the garden I made, I learned some great ways to improve the garden and some viable ways to try and spread urban gardening in my town.

The night of a thousand and one needles started out like any other night. The grand idea of a walk struck us as an appropriate drain of a clock's second hand. Each tick and each tock counted the steps forward. We passed by termite hills 12 feet high, small water falls, huge chest-sized sunflowers, and fallow farm land. Along the irrigation path carved out from the river, little vortexes protruded from the ground. These black holes of dirt were the starting point for the large termite mounds that they would one day become. After we ballerina-walked along the irrigation canal, the path lead us up a cliff. At the top of the cliff my body panned to finally find the more prototypical Africa. Plateaued mountains plunged to hills that curved into a mass of inter placed bodies; hips, shoulders, legs, and feet fell into the river below. In the distance, a herd of camels could be seen resting by the water's edge and gazelle could be seen frolicking in the opposite direction. As we walked further carved farms hugged the cliffs along the small protrusions of land. These color-saturated farms drew stark contrasts to the fallow land upon which we walked high above the river.

Dotting the path that we led were farmers and herders, mostly children or young men. As we progressed forward a group of two children and a young man pantomimed that we should follow them. To the left on the path were some brambles that hid passageways of bogged down farm land.
The sound grew as we hopped through the marsh-like farm land, prancing to and fro to avoid stepping into watery chasms. Finally ducking through a curtain of thorny bush a huge waterfall presented itself in its foggy warm accoutrements. In the shadow of this thundering fall of water bright-colored plastic sandals danced in a prison of current, fallen friends to their river-crossing masters upstream.

On our way back for dinner, an urge to reach a cave up on the hill filled the boyishly idiotic heads of the hiking group and 3 of us made our way up through skin piercing two-inch-needle-bearing bushes and rose-thorn-like bushes that pierced flesh and clothing creating marionettes of us all. We all reached the cave from different paths. The cave seemed to be deep as the curve was just out of site. To get a better angle to view how far back the cave ran, I, with flashlight in hand inched slightly into the cave. I felt a pain and fell back stunned as if I had just been punched in the face. Whether or not it was bravado or thick-headed adventure that drew me into the cave, I think we can all guess which one led me into this life-threatening situation. I guess luck was my lady as the life-threatening situation could not be easily seen for a two-inch wasp was the culprit of my the knock-out punch that I received. If I had been allergic, we would've been in trouble, but instead the cave merely presented me with a sharp pain in my head and I returned said present with a stinger-ed retort of oaths and curses. The verdict is out on who caused the most pain with their onslaught. As all good boyishly idiotic adventures lend themselves to, treasure was at the end of our voyage. We each found forearm length porcupine quills that we wore like feathers in our caps as we debated on the best route down the hill from the cave. While getting up here was easy, the path back was undecided and treacherous.
Imagine the briar-patches that seperated the prince from Sleeping Beauty and you would not be too far off from the maze ahead of us. I felt like Frodo Baggins in the spider's lair as my clothing and skin were caught whilst ducking and bending through the labryinth. The only way forward was to tear oneself free from the snares. After about 30 minutes of this, caution gave way to urgency as the sun was setting in the distance. We finally exited with our cuts burning from the sweat of exertion. Our clothing was worn to mesh, but we all wore smiles from the night of a thousand and one needles as we walked back to the hotel.

The rest of the training passed by quickly. One other thing of note were the monkeys that played the theatrical roles of thieves, beggars and lechers. Some of the more impressive performances are as follows. I come into my room to see that I had left the door open on accident. The monkey had gotten into my medkit and opened up every single package inside of it. Secondly, I open my eyes in the morning after leaving my door open at night thinking the monkeys wouldn't dare enter my room with me in it. About 6 monkeys ran out of my hotel room and leaped into the trees. Lastly, I ended up twisting my ankle on stairs out of surprise that a monkey in front of me was openly showing his love of himself.

I am now back in Dessie feeling better about my work prospects. Also, now that in-service training is over, we are allowed to travel around Ethiopia, so stayed tuned for travel adventures in the upcoming months. Thanks to Ericka, Kat, Pookano, Karen, and Libby for the letter love. Until next time; keep a sharp eye, mind the gap, and watch out for thieving monkeys.

Comments

[debark dave]

I foolishly gave my hard earned quill to the pretty girl who taught me the word "jart." I'm going to have this translated to amharic so she can know what I went through for it.

[libby!]

JON!

Really enjoyed this last post!

I just refreshed my calling card..talk soon??? miss you loads man!

Heading to France tomorrow! Nervous!!

Hope you are well!! xoxo